Osteria Senz'Oste, a rural refuge overlooking Cartizze

In the hills of Valdobbiadene there is a magical place where time has stood still.

In the hills of Valdobbiadene there is a magical place where time has stood still.

Nestled between the Prosecco DOC hills, an old 19th century farmhouse overlooking the vineyards has become an iconic place to enjoy simple food, as if in a timeless refuge. Hidden among the rows of vines, just a few steps from the Col Vetoraz winery, “L’Osteria senz’Oste” is located on the Great War front, 500 meters from the Piave River, and is set apart by genuine welcomes and afternoons spent with friends over a good glass of wine and a slice of bread with salami.

From the absent innkeeper
The idea came to Cesare De Stefani in 2005. He used to own this old farmhouse that was always open, where he would go with friends to eat and drink. Every now and then his friends would pass by and, not finding him, would leave a note on the table, complaining that they hadn’t found any snacks. So he started leaving a bottle, some glasses and a hint about the price with a piggy bank next to it. The project appealed to him, his famous friends and all the people passing by. The philosophy behind this place is one of trust: paying the bill or taking advantage of it, that is up to the travellers’ honesty.

Picnic with a view
Today, for obvious reasons, everything at the Osteria senz’Oste is packaged and stored in a fridge from which visitors take what they want as if from a self-service restaurant. However, the enchantment of the place remains unchanged. From the walkways all around the old stone-walled farmhouse you can enjoy a spectacular 360° view of the vineyards of Valdobbiadene and sit amongst the rows for a romantic picnic.

Tickets from the world
According to its founder, the presence of the host changes people’s emotions, which is why over the years he has always encouraged guests to make themselves at home. To show their gratitude for having preserved a place so far from the hustle and bustle of the city, they have left lots of cards with short dedications from all over the world: Argentina, Japan, the UK, Namibia. Today, those inscriptions hang like clouds from the walls of the inner room where the old fireplace and the wooden table, together with a multitude of objects, serve as reminders of a passage.

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